Tuesday, January 15, 2008

And So It Began....

Every epic session I can every recall surfing in the sacred winter waters of NY I just never felt alone. The presence of a friend or two isn't what I mean. I'm not talking about the marine life either, yet something more precious than that. It is more of a erie grey presence. The presence of low hanging smoke colored clouds draped over the sky, winds just strong enough to make that howlin' sound in your ear, long witch hair like over spray growing off the lip of the breaking waves and the black and chocolate colored water. All of those ingredients are part of a secret recipe. When all of the above is combined it creates what I like call the "Grey Ghost".

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